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Machinery Photo Index
Manufactured/Badged by:
Porter-Cable Machine Co.
Syracuse, NY and Jackson, TN

Machine Specifications
Machine Class: Wood Working Machinery
Machine Type: Sander
Machine Size: 15"
Submitted By: Matt Tebo
Machine Specifications
Description/Model: Model D-1 Disc Sander
Date of Manufacturer: 1945
Serial Number: 3389 (View SN Registry Entry)
Last Updated 2/12/2013 1:39:26 PM

Comments:
I bought this machine from a closing busness in Fairfield, CT. Complete except for the miter gage. I like the old worklight and will try to keep it.

Update: Fully restored this machine over the course of about 3 weeks in September 2008. One important thing to know about this machine during a teardown is the hub that holds the disc to the motor shaft was held on by 2 setscrews, 180 degrees apart, each setscrew hole having double setscrews. It is not enough to just loosen the setscrews and start pulling. Learned the hardway. Nothing terribly difficult about the teardown, except the small cast piece atop the square shaft that holds the table adjustment casting is actually poured in place with babbitt. After I got the machine all back together, I inserted the tapered pin used to lock the table at 90 degrees, squared the table to the disc, and held it with a tie down strap. Then, I took a cheap metal measuring cup (1 cup), smashed it into a football like shape so it had a spout, put a 1" cube of babbitt into the cup, heated it with a propane torch, then poured the molten metal into the top of the cast piece via a 1/4" diameter hole that was manufactured into the casting. I held the measuring cup handle with a set of vise grips. It worked really well, and was cheap. I held the babbitt in with Babbit-Rite putty. The machine has a 220/440v 3 phase motor and takes 2ea 6204 bearings. I installed SKF 6204-2RS double sealed bearings and plugged the grease zerk holes with brass plugs. I am very happy with the paint job on this one. To strip the paint on the smaller parts, I let them sit in 3 gallons of lacquer thinner in a 5 gallon bucket with the lid on. 24 hrs later the paint just fell off. Repainted with Rustoleum Professional Dark Machinery Gray. Accented the raised lettering with black paint and a small artist's brush. The light came with the machine when I bought it, and I really liked it. It is a very old Bryant 250V 250w lamp assembly. I just used a 40w 120v bulb, and it is really neat. I took the non-original electrical disconnects off. I am not sure why anyone would have put them on there, but I did not like them. The machine was missing the dust tube that goes from the aluminum casting surrounding the disc to the hole in the base casting. I bought 1.5" diameter stainless steel duct from McMaster Carr, a 1" pvc pipe and hose clamp. I built up the OD of the pvc with electrical tape until it was a snug fit in the aluminum casting. Banged it home with a rubber mallet, cut the tubing about 1 foot long, and then attached the duct to the pvc with a stainless steel hose clamp. It looks good to me and will funnel the dust into the base casting just like the original. The neatest thing about this machine is the brass or bronze handles and the brass gears used back then. I had no idea when I bought the machine that these parts would be made of these materials. I was surprised to see this during the "war finish" years, but I am glad they are still there. Really seperates this machine from a run of the mill disc sander of this size.

Photo 1:

Comments: Front view of machine
Source: me
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Photo 2:

Comments: Side View, Painted everything including gears
Source: me
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Photo 3:

Comments: Side view
Source: me
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Photo 4:

Comments: Switch Side, Lamp in Background
Source: me
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Photo 5:

Comments: Side View, Note Brass gears and handles
Source: me
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Photo 6:

Comments: Completed Front View
Source: Me
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