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Manufactured/Badged by:
Delta Specialty/Delta Mfg. Co./Delta-Rockwell/Rockwell Intl.
Milwaukee, WI; Jackson, TN; Tupelo, MS

Machine Specifications
Machine Class: Wood Working Machinery
Machine Type: Jig or Scroll Saw
Machine Size: 16"
Submitted By: Matthew Warwick
Machine Specifications
Description/Model: 40-110 Homecraft Scroll Saw
Date of Manufacturer: 1953
Serial Number: AT4380
Last Updated 9/3/2023 1:37:16 AM

Comments:
My first restoration! Found it for $40 on Craigslist in Modesto, CA and picked it up in January 2023. Worked on it on and off until late April 2023, which is when I finished it. I intend to keep it for future use as a woodworking tool but it doubled as a foray into vintage machinery restoration before I tackle bigger machines.

Most parts are original. The original badges were faded so I found a logo badge off another old machine on eBay and had a reproduction of the serial badge made so that the number would be the same as the original (thanks to Tom Utley of Von Industrial for that!). The same thing happened with the angle gauge: found another one off another old machine and used that. I also had to tap new holes after removing the old drive screws holding the badges on, and I just used regular machine screws to hold the new badges in place.

I also changed the belt, blade, one of the washers, the switch cover, one of the o-ring seals and also added some washers on the crankcase cover bolts to allow for extra room for tension to be applied and prevent small leaks from happening. Most obvious of all is that I replaced the rickety old wooden stand it was mounted on when I first got it with a more rugged metal one that I modified using parts from two stands I already had. At some point I will install wooden blocks and casters at the 4 corners.

For de-rusting of the smaller parts I used Blaster Rust Remover Bath and followed this by doing a bit of polishing with baking soda/water paste and abrasive pads. For the larger parts I used a combination of Naval Jelly and Rust-o-Leum Rust Removal Spray Gel. For stripping of paint, I used Citristrip. I also used abrasive pads and sandpaper to help remove the old paint and rust, and I followed this by wiping down the surfaces with acetone. For re-painting, I used 2 coats of spray-on Rust-o-Leum Gray Primer followed by 3 coats of Rust-o-Leum Gloss Winter Grey Spray Paint. For the end bells on the motor, I used Rust-o-Leum Professional Gloss Black after the primer.

It runs and cuts smoothly and looks like it's been given a new lease on life, so this was a great way to start my journey into restoring these vintage tools!

UPDATES: I have since replaced the two original pulleys with new ones and the machine runs even smoother now, sometimes passing the "nickel test" (albeit briefly).

Also, I ended up replacing both of the gaskets with thicker ones as well as grinding the underside of the outer circumference of both crankcase covers back to being flat (as the areas around the holes were a bit warped, preventing a tight seal). This helped get rid of little bits of leakage I got from both sides, though once I switched down to a thinner oil (SAE 10 as per the owner's manual), I had to tighten the screws a bit more as well to prevent it. I also got rid of the extra washers I used on the crankcase cover screws (see second picture) as they prevented the screws from going in far enough, allowing oil to sometimes seep into the holes and letting it leak out (ironic considering why I put them on there in the first place).

Lastly, no matter what I did, including getting another plunger rod and trying different oil, I could not get the lower plunger bushing to quit leaking oil while the machine was running (which would end up running down the side of the machine). Apparently they skipped putting a housing for a felt washer on this model (which they had on the 24" ones), and I consider this a glaring design flaw on an otherwise solid machine.

I believe I'll need to eventually machine my own plunger rod as new ones are not currently manufactured for this machine. For the time being, I cut some industrial grade 1/4" felt to match the shape of the surface where the plunger goes up and down. Then, as suggested to me by a fellow OWWM forum member (thanks, Charlie!), I used a couple small magnets to keep it from going up and down with the plunger (again, see second picture). Works great as an aftermarket gasket of sorts, and no more leaking! If needed I can also switch back to using a thicker oil in the future to make it even more leak-proof!

ANOTHER UPDATE: After all was said and done, I noticed oil STILL seeped out the bottom of each crankcase cover, though VERY slowly. The cause? The gasket material I went with was some kind of fiber or paper material, and although I thought it would work, it wasn't oil resistant. Oil would slowly seep into it, eventually saturating it and allowing for oil to slowly seep out that way. I got rid of that gasket material and used Permatex Ultra Black on both covers as well as using teflon tape on all of the cover screws. After a couple of weeks, there are no signs of seepage and the outside is bone dry, so the moral of this story is this: fiber gasket covers will not prevent oil from seeping through, so they are not the ones to use!

Photo 1:

Comments: This is how the saw looked when I first brought it home. LOTS of rust!
Source: Taken with my iPhone
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Photo 2:

Comments: Closeup of a mod I did to leak-proof the lower plunger bushing (see info section above)
Source: Taken with my iPhone
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Photo 3:

Comments: All the parts once taken off the saw body but before de-rusting and cleaning
Source: Taken with my iPhone
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Photo 4:

Comments: All the parts together after being de-rusted and cleaned
Source: Taken with my iPhone
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Photo 5:

Comments: The restored saw on its stand along with the new badges and blade
Source: Taken with my iPhone
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Photo 6:

Comments: A good shot of the restored motor and new cogged belt
Source: Taken with my iPhone
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